Arizona – Off the Beaten Path

I just returned from a week in Arizona, an annual trip that includes a visit with my dad and stepmother, a business trip, and a hiking/photography/foodie weekend somewhere in Arizona or Utah.  I love the desert – the beautiful scenery, the unspoiled wilderness, the quiet chill of a desert sunrise.

Sunrise, Mesa Arch, Canyonlands National Park, Moab, UT

Arizona is a wonderful state to explore, particularly if you love the outdoors.  You can feed your soul by meditating on the desert’s beauty.  You can rejuvenate your mind by working off any anxieties in a day-long mountain hike.

And you can feed your body at any number of great eating spots.

When I’m prepping for my Arizona trip, I scour the web looking for some off-the-beaten-path spots to explore new tastes.  A few years ago, I was looking for a food adventure somewhere between Phoenix and Tucson.  That search led me to the town of Queen Creek, Arizona.

I stopped at the best known site in Queen Creek, to eat the sandwich made famous by a certain spiky-haired food celebrity.  Frankly, I was a bit underwhelmed by both.

The location seemed a tourist trap, a spot in the middle of nowhere designed to siphon dollars out of wallets as quickly as possible (I’m not naming it, in case that hasn’t become clear yet.  But as an aside, I have nothing but admiration for that spiky-haired celebrity.  Larger than life persona aside, his show highlights family-owned and -run businesses, never chains, the kind of businesses we should all support.  Featuring these places on his shows has undoubtedly enriched many families’ lives and wallets, and he is to be commended for that.).

The sandwich had potential, but was under-stuffed and over-priced.  Not sure if that happened only after that celebrity visited, or if it was always that way.  Regardless, neither seemed worth the trip.

However, the menu mentioned the sandwich’s meat was produced by The Pork Shop.  A quick Google search, and I was on my way to The Pork Shop.

Where I met Jason Corman, the magnificently-mustachioed gentleman pictured here:

Jason Corman, General Manager and Mustachio Maintainer, The Pork Shop, Queen Creek, Arizona

Jason is the General Manager of The Pork Shop (, and might be the only man that loves bacon more than me.  While I have a deep love for the salty goodness of cured pork belly, Jason’s love runs deeper.

Much deeper.

Like nine (!!!!) different kinds of bacon deeper:  Hickory Smoked, Kansas City Style, Pepper Cured, Canadian, Tuscan, Jalapeño, BBQ, Pancetta, and Nitrate Free.

(Overachiever . . .)

Unfortunately, I’ve never been able to try their bacon.  I’m always on my way somewhere else, with neither refrigeration nor cooking facilities at hand.

But Jason has me covered, as The Pork Shop sells a veritable cornucopia of other pork products, including their famous burritos, a bargain at $4 each, and available in Green Chile or BBQ pork, as well as numerous lunch meats, sausages, and salamis.

Most of the meats are pork, although there is dried beef available.  I always take a few minutes to try some of the latest offerings.  Jason, like all food purveyors worth their salt, believes the customer should taste the food before buying.  So, while he’ll sell you pig in many forms, it’ll never be in a poke.

On this visit, I tried the jalapeño bologna.

OK, stop right there.

As soon as you read “bologna”, you got a picture in your mind.  That picture is a round slice of pink processed food, with a completely uniform surface, coloration, and mildly unimpressive taste.


Banish that thought.

The Pork Shop’s bologna is kin to their salami, a sausage with easily identifiable bits of lean, fat, and flavorings, in this case, jalapeños that have been gently blanched, enough to lose the raw crunch, while still retaining the bright, vegetal green flavor of the pepper.  It’s about as far from that lunchbox slice as you can get.

If you go to their Web site, you can see the prices on their menu.  Their quality products are actually cheaper than most of the overly-processed cheaper meat by-products sold under various brand names.

And it tastes better than any of ’em!

I bought some of four different meats:  the jalapeño bologna, the Italian salami, redolent with fennel, the dried beef, and the capicola.  Later, with a couple additions from a local market, they made an excellent antipasti platter for my dinner.

Dried beef, jalapeño bologna, capicola, and Italian salami from The Pork Shop. Also marcona almonds, cheese, heirloom tomatoes, bufala mozzarella, and basil. Because I could.

Another interesting thing about The Pork Shop is that there’s usually someone down by the intersection, selling something out of their trunk, or the back of a truck.  On a previous trip, I met The Salsa Lady, who made some of the best salsa I’ve tasted.  She must have sold a lot, as there’s now a freestanding shop nearby with her name on it.

On this trip, I met Ben McKim, from The Hive:

Ben McKim, apiculturist extraordinaire, and owner of The Hive

Ben was selling honey from his hives, in pints and quarts.  He had both raw and filtered honey.  You can just see the yellow of the raw honey in that row of jars.

Because I had just finished the “Honey” episode of the Netflix documentary series, “Rotten,”  I had a lot of honey facts at my fingertips.  I was able to talk to Ben about the number of his hives, and the fact most of his bees were currently in California, helping to pollinate the almond groves.  I spoke to Ben about the Rotten episode, the gist of which was that Chinese honey being dumped into the US (re-labeled with different countries of origin, to avoid duties and tariffs) spelled trouble for small apiculturists like him.

He agreed, said if the price of honey was where it should be, he wouldn’t have to sell by the side of the road.

Ben’s bees feed on sage and mesquite.  As a result, the honey seems a bit darker, and has a definite spicy taste.

A pint of bee milk from The Hive, Ben McKim’s beekeeping operation in Coolidge, AZ

It’s very different from what we get here, and I was glad I bought a pint.  It went really well with the marcona almonds and sourdough bread and butter on my antipasti tray.

It also drove home a point I’ve been learning since starting this blog:  what you buy matters.  This honey was $11 for the pint/pound, about the same as what you would pay for the same amount in a plastic bear at Sam’s Club.  However, that bear purchase supports a corporation, and the honey could be from China, and re-labeled to avoid paying tariffs.  It could be adulterated with corn syrup, to make more “honey” from the same amount of bee output (again, can’t recommend the Netflix series “Rotten” enough.).

Or you can buy your food from people like Ben and Jason, men who work to support their families, put in an honest day’s work, and take pride in their products.

You can buy from stores like Hashem’s, and support that family.  Or you can buy from WalMart, and further enrich the Walton family.

The choice really is up to you, but more and more I’m finding that your choice MATTERS.  And who you support with your dollars MATTERS.  Because if these small suppliers don’t make enough to survive — well, they won’t survive. And you won’t have that choice any longer.

As I continue to write this blog, I’ll be leaning more into that viewpoint.

Educated consumers make better choices, and I want my readers to know more about the food the eat, where they buy it, who they buy it from, and who makes it.

I hope you enjoy the journey, and will continue to read along.



I’m interested in finding out if readers are interested in learning more about their food, and their food choices.  Please leave a comment, or use the “Contact Us” form to let me know what you think of that viewpoint.  Thanks for reading!

Hashem’s Redux

Spices, spices, everywhere
Making their own non-alcohol extracts
New candies
Feed your sweet tooth
Dried mango, rooibos tea, dakkah, and Egyptian black honey (molasses)
“Bridging All Culture Through Good Food” Is there any doubt why Adam has become a good friend?
“Keeping Tradition Alive for Future Generations” A noble goal!
Royal honey, with organic figs, walnuts, and cinnamon. Imagine the flavor!
Honey with huge cloves of garlic. Adam tells me 1 spoonful in the morning will take care of most colds.
Two types of Dakkah
Two kinds of Kri kri, shelled pistachios
Hashem’s has started importing their own house-brand kri kri. The spicy bbq is an addictive snack.
Buy ’em by the pound! Look at the low prices.

Hashem’s Roastery

Adam Hashem, manager of the Warren Road location.

If you didn’t know it was there, you’d miss it.

If you didn’t know what’s inside, you might not go in.

And that would be a shame, as Hashem’s Roastery is a fantastic store.  It’s full of mysterious smells, exotic tastes, unusual items, herbs, tinctures, and potions.  It’s like something out of  Harry Potter’s world.

Hashem’s is actually a small chain, with three stores in the Dearborn area, along with the original store in Lebanon.  The location on Warren is run by Adam Hashem, grandson of the founder.

Nuts and seeds for sale

Hashem’s is a family business, started by Sheik Theeb, in 1959, in a small Lebanese village of a couple thousand people.  The village healer, he set broken bones, and created herb tonics for various ailments.  Because of demand, he opened a dekanei, a small shop, selling herbs, coffee and teas.

Adam’s father began working in the shop when he was 11, roasting coffee and nuts, learning about the herbs and tonics.  But in 1976, he was part of a mandatory draft, and began moving his family from base to base.

Eventually emigrating to Michigan, he settled in Dearborn.  He had a total of $100 to his name, and began working in a slaughterhouse to make ends meet.  Eventually, he was able to open a small 600 sq ft shop on Warren in 1985.  It was patterned after his father’s shop in Lebanon, an Old World shop in a New World location.  As the Arabic population continued to grow, so did their business.

Success demanded expansion, and the present location opened in 1995.

Some of Hashem’s house blended teas: Lavender Moonlight (front, right), Passion Peach (front left), Masala Chai (back, left), and Caesar’s Fruit Tea (back, center).

The shop is a cross between convenience store, neighborhood cafe, grocery store, and speciality shop.  Hashem’s plays a positive role in the neighborhood, offering information on visas, help with social issues, and other advice.  Adam prides himself on the trust placed in them by their patrons.

Hashem’s has recently begun offering culinary tours, using the common language of food to bridge the gap between cultures.

Star anise, long pepper, galangal slices, and Aleppo pepper, one of the trendiest spices right now.

They sell coffee, teas, spices, dried fruit and nuts, seeds – even kri kri, a Japanese snack food.  They stock over 40 herbs, 35 different botanicals, Turkish coffee supplies, cheeses, candy . . . the list goes on.

Whole dried hibiscus, with an array of dried fruits and nuts, including some of the biggest cashews I’ve seen.

They continue to import direct, dealing as much as possible with the same local farmers and distributors they’ve worked with over the years.  Because of this, most items are a bargain.

Japanese Kri Kri

They also continue to look for better sources.  Currently, they import their kri kri from China, the main supplier of this snack food.  However, Adam has found a better source in Australia, and they are awaiting their first container of this new product.

Adam has a degree in biochemistry, and a strong belief in holistic living.  He’s happy to make suggestions for helpful purchases, or to guide you through the selection of their own 28 tea blends.  When my daughter asked for rose water and tea tree oil, not only did Adam guess she was using them for a mask, he was also able to provide her with their own mask mix, a formula created in house.  So if you are looking for botanicals, essential oils, or other holistic tinctures, Hashem’s is your place.

From left to right: whole mustard seed, pink brining salt, saffron, whole mahlab, and whole nutmeg

And if you’re a cook, then you’ve hit the mother lode.  Hashem’s stocks spices I’ve never heard of, along with most that I have.  And because they import direct, the spices are fresher, seemingly of higher quality, and much, much cheaper.  If you are planning on holiday baking, you really need to make a trip to Hashem’s.  From true cinnamon, to whole nutmegs, to whole cardamom, to saffron, Aleppo pepper, Hashem’s has them all.  They even stock the biggest cashews I’ve ever seen.

True cinnamon, in natural bark form, and ground. The smell was incredible!

At bargain basement prices.  Seriously, I can’t believe how inexpensive these are, in comparison to the familiar red and white containers in the grocery spice aisle.

Dark roasted coffee. In spite of its appearance, the coffee is not oily. The beans are completely dry, but roasted darkly rich. Hammered copper Turkish coffee vessels are pictured in the background.

Even better, if you check in on Yelp while you’re there, you get an additional 10% discount, making a great deal even better.  And if you tell him you found them through this article, he’ll at least throw in a friendly smile.

A pot of blooming tea

During this holiday season, you need to visit Hashem’s.  Take some time.  Look around.  Sample the various tastes – the candy, the dried fruits, the nuts and seeds.  Drink some tea with Adam.  And enjoy a bit of Old World culture and hospitality few have actually experienced.

Hashem’s Roastery is located at 13041 W. Warren Road, Dearborn, MI.  They’re open from 10 AM to 10 PM daily, Sundays 10 AM to 8PM.  There are two other locations in the Dearborn area.

Otus Supply – Fabulous in Ferndale

The ubiquitous owl logo

It started with an Italian grandmother.  Well, not the restaurant, but the chef.

Chef Myles McVay

For Myles McVay, 37, the executive chef at Otus Supply in Ferndale, the interest in cooking began with his Italian grandma, “She was always cooking.” From there, it was a short trip to the neighborhood pizzeria. At 13, he started working there, washing dishes. He moved up to making pizzas, and a career was born.

His career has reached its current apex at Otus Supply, an original concept for metro Detroit. Open since December of 2016, Otus is a 10,000 sq. ft. space: a combination concert hall, craft cocktail/beer bar, and restaurant under one roof. Designed by Alex Morales from SmartMouth Designs, a Chicago-based restaurant design studio, the Otus space features

Down the hobbit hole?

funky lighting, textural walls, and flourishes of owls (“otus” is the genus of owls).

Myles oversees the kitchen, where everything* is made from scratch.  And everything is designed to be prepped from order to table in 10-12 minutes.

The kitchen is large, and it has to be. Otus combines quality and quantity, serving up to 500 patrons on a summer weekend concert night. Guests are treated to a menu that’s difficult to categorize – there’s pizzas and pastas, a number of vegetable dishes, and four or five larger proteins. So Italian, right?

Well, no.

There’s a serious amount of influence from other cultures, from the kimchi used in the cucumber salad, to the complex mole residing under the unctuous beef short rib.

Fusion?  World cuisine?  I’m not sure.  How about if we go with “unique”?

What I do know is this is great food.  In two visits, I was able to sample a number of dishes.

Crispy, charred, bubbly crust

Let’s follow the menu, and start with the pizza.  Pizza is all about the crust, and here, the crust is made daily.  Beginning with “00” flour, the dough is mixed, then allowed to rise in large plastic tubs.  Because of the fineness of the flour grind (the “00”), and the natural leavening, the result is a finished crust that has the crispy exterior, airy, bubbly interior, and just the right amount of “chew”.  I tried the “Our-inara”, the Otus take on the traditional margherita, featuring fresh mozzarella, tomatoes, garlic, and basil.  The crust was perfect, and the sauce spicy, both from the garlic, the oregano, and the generous amount of hot pepper flakes.

There’s a similar care taken with another simple dish, the bread and butter.

“Simple” bread & butter

The bread is a malted wheat sourdough, with a crackling crisp crust, and a light interior.  The bread has a slightly sour taste (hence the name), worth mentioning because of the plethora of  “sourdough” breads sold in the various markets that are neither crusty nor sour, and have no evidence of the required starter.  That is not the case here, with a bread that is heartier than the traditional white San Francisco sourdough, but still features that great fermented taste.

The butter is made in–house, and combined with roasted garlic and Kalamata olives.  It’s tasty.  However, they change the blends often, even going with plain butter now and again.  So the dish will always be a bit different.

The house-made pastas should make his grandmother proud.  They’re cooked al dente, and have the creamy richness that comes from being tossed with the sauce.

Mafalde with pork sugo

The first pasta, the Mafalde, is a different noodle.  Legend has it this pasta shape is named after a princess.  Whether that is true or not, if you took a lasagna noodle, and eliminated 2/3 of the flat noodle in the middle, you’d have mafalde, a long flat pasta noodle with ruffles on both sides.  There’s a lot of texture to this noodle, so the sauce needs to be hearty, to stand up to it.  No problem here, as the pork sugo has the deep taste of slow simmering.  A surprise here is the included hazelnuts.  Yes, they are called out on the menu (no hidden allergen concern here), but it was a new inclusion for me.  This is a dish with wonderful layers of texture:  thick, al dente pasta, crunchy hazelnuts, tender bits of pork.  The dusting of parmesan atop completes the dish.

Squid Ink Pappardelle with Flying Fish Roe and Cured Egg

The second was a squid ink pappardelle, a dish of glistening jet black pasta, topped with cured egg yolk, grated Pecorino Romano cheese, garnished with orange roe.  The flying fish roe appears jewel-like, almost luminescent.  It may be the most beautiful dish I’ve photographed, and the taste?  It’s like eating the ocean.  The dish tastes of rich, salty brine, with a textural counterplay of the “pop” of the fishy eggs. and the chew of the noodles.  It’s tremendous, one of the two signature dishes here.

The third pasta was a root vegetable agnolotti.  On this day, the root vegetable

Parsley Root Agnolotti

in question was parsley root.  The pasta is sauced with brown butter, bits of caramelized apples, and garnished with sage, parmesan, and flavored bread crumbs.  It’s a fall dish, a sweeter sauce with holiday flavors.

Sweet & Sour Cucumber


Of the vegetables, the Sweet & Sour Cucumber was delicious and refreshing.  This is a molded cylinder of matchstick cucumbers, sweet corn, and charred lemon bits, topped with feta, a cracker, and black sesame seeds.  It’s light and tangy, either as a salad course, or a substantial palate cleanser before the larger dishes.

The wood fired broccoli is as it sounds, but sauced with a seaweed aioli for a

Wood Fired Broccoli – you can see the chili powder on the sunflower seeds

different taste.  It’s garnished with sunflower seeds and togarashi (Japanese red chili powder).  This is a solid dish.  While certainly vegetarian, vegans will need to ask them to hold the aioli, as it contains egg.  Chef Myles says they’re happy to accommodate requests like these.

Zucchini Fries

I also tried the zucchini fritters.  As you can see, these are beautifully plated and presented, topped with English peas, shaved fennel, and garnished with a bit of parsley mayo (also containing egg).   However, these are zucchini fries, not fritters.  Thin, long rectangular pieces of zucchini are battered and deep fried.  And they largely taste like really fresh, expertly battered, fried zucchini.

Wood-fired octopus

Woodfired octopus was an interesting dish.  Banish thoughts of calamari.  This has nothing in common with the rubbery little circles of squid over-fried in other establishments.  This is a classic Mediterranean dish, tender grilled tentacles of octopus, served over kimchi, garnished with puffed black rice (think “Snap, Crackle . . . oh, I always forget the third one!), dressed with a kombucha and honey vinaigrette.

I expected a heavy shot of funk with this dish, due to the two fermented items.  However, the kimchi had a smooth, mild flavor.  I asked Chef McVay, and he informed me that longer fermentation mellows the harsher flavors of kimchi.  Because of this, it complemented the octopus nicely, rather than taking over the dish.  The overall result was a balanced dish, one I would eat again.

The final dish was a show-stopper, the beef short rib.

Let’s start with size.  This thing is huge.  Otus obtains a special order cut of short ribs, and they average 22 – 24 ozs. per rib.  That’s at least double the size of most restaurant portions, and triple that of some.

So it’s a generously-sized portion.  It’s big enough to share.

Giant beef short rib, the signature dish

You won’t want to, though, as it is cooked to perfection.  The meat is well-seasoned, which, in the case of beef, means it has been properly salted.  The meat also has a solid sear, creating a good crust.   It has been cooked for several hours (braised, sous vide, both?), until the meat is fork tender, rendering the provided steak knife completely extraneous.

The rib is served in a pool of mole, the complex Mexican sauce consisting of 20 – 30 ingredients, including garlic, multiple types of chiles, chocolate, nuts, dried fruit, seeds, and spices.  Chef McVay’s mole is mildly spicy, but earthy and rich.

The rib is garnished with chimichurri, roasted squash, and crispy shaved carrots.

The beef is richly unctuous, redolent with deep flavor.  It’s grandma’s pot roast on steroids, fork tender comfort food.  In my opinion, it’s their signature dish.  If this is on the menu, order it, and plan the rest of the meal around it.

It’s that good.

Otus Supply is a unique restaurant, and Chef McVay brings a unique vision to the kitchen.  There’s really nothing like either in the area.  You should go.

If you can’t get a reservation, don’t worry.  About 1/3 of the seats are saved for walk-ins, so there’s hope.  Go with friends, order lots of dishes, and share and pass them around.  That’s the best way to experience Otus.

“Owl” see you there.

Otus Supply is located at 345 East 9 Mile Road in Ferndale.  It opens at 5 PM Monday – Friday, 4 PM on Saturday.  The kitchen serves till 10 PM Monday – Thursday, 11 PM Friday and Saturday.  The bar is open till midnight Monday – Wednesday, and 2 AM Thursday through Saturday.  You can make reservations by calling 248.291.6160, or by clicking the button marked “Click Here!” at

*In discussion with Chef Myles, it turns out that the mozzarella is the only item not (yet) made in house.  However, by the time you read this, it probably will be.

Takoi, nee Katoi


“And you may ask yourself
What is that beautiful house?
And you may ask yourself
Where does that highway go to?
And you may ask yourself
Am I right? Am I wrong?
And you may say yourself, “My God! What have I done?”

“Same as it ever was.” “Same as it ever was.”

With apologies to Brian Eno, David Byrne, and the rest of the Talking Heads, they never went away.

That’s the message Courtney Henriette wants everyone to hear.

Yes, the restaurant burned.

Yes, they had to close it up for months.

But that time wasn’t wasted.

The ownership team of Courtney, chef Brad Greenhill, and Philip Kafka went back to the beginning.  Back to life as a pop-up.

After the February 17th fire, they established a residency at Frame, in Hazel Park.  The did a number of pop-ups at Mabel Gray, Grey Ghost, and other locations.

And they kept the team together.  About 75% of the previous staff is here.  Many were kept on payroll during the hiatus.

Now, they’re back in the old location, but is it the same as it ever was?

It might even be better.

What’s changed?

Maybe everything.

The decor is different, courtesy of architect Ishtiaq Rafiuddin.  There is a new wing, housed in a shipping container.  

There’s a new patio, surrounded by a fence.

The restaurant interior has been freshened, new booths installed, lighting reworked.

The bar seems largely unchanged, a Blade Runner speakeasy, but now with a serving window to the patio.  


The cinder block walls remain, as does the sense of place.  It’s still weird, Detroit.  You’re at Takoi.

The menu has changed.  While still on a single page, the headings have changed, as have most of the dishes.  Over the past few weeks, I’ve had the pleasure of trying many of these new tastes.

I started with a new dish, the Melon Salad.  As background, my late mother and I clashed over melon.  She loved all kinds; I thought anything other than watermelon was a waste.  Mom would have loved this salad.  The melon in question is honeydew and cantaloupe, shaved thin, tossed with cherry tomato halves, dressed with Thai basil, lime leaf, and ginger, atop a cashew crema.  It presents beautifully, as you can see.  How good is it?  I wanted to lick the bowl–the sweet of the melon is enhanced with the brightness of the basil and lime leaf, and the cashew crema adds a welcome richness.  This is a must-have dish, and a great start to a meal

The Fried Cauliflower is also a new dish, one a bit on the sweeter side.  Flavored with tamarind, curry powder, and palm sugar, the dish also gets a kick from the pickled chile and fresh cilantro garnish.  I enjoyed this vegan dish (the menu is very vegan- and vegetarian-friendly).  There’s a pleasant crunch to the florets, the hit of sweetness, and the acidic finish from the chile and cilantro.


Charred Broccoli is Takoi’s take on the ubiquitous vegetable.  Broccoli ships well, is available year-round, and is a healthy thing to eat.  What’s not to love?  Well, the taste for one.  There’s a reason most Americans associate broccoli with crudite platters and Ranch dip.  Takoi’s version might change this, convincing even little diners to eat their vegetables.  Grill-charred broccoli is dressed with curry rice crispies, atop more of the cashew crema, garnished with scallion shavings.  It’s a simple dish that simply works.

Grilled Corn was my final vegetable. Chef Brad introduces elote, Mexican street corn, to its Asian cousin.  The result is a charred half cob of corn, slathered with a bit of crema (coconut milk base?), garnished with cilantro, lime juice, and toasted coconut.  It’s a quintessential Thai flavor feast:  layers of sweet, acidic, and citrus.  It’s also messy, like all corn on the cob.  Live a little – eat with your hands.  Mess up your face.  If that bothers your date, they’re not the one for you anyways.  Who wants to hang out with somebody who’s that uptight?


After paying full homage to the veggies, we moved on to the proteins.  Chef Brad’s Fried Chicken is very crispy, perfectly moist, and a generous portion.  It’s served with what the menu describes as a southern Thai curry, and roti bread.  Honestly, I was a bit taken aback by this dish.  The curry took me to India, with a taste similar to a traditional Indian massaman.  I wasn’t expecting the sweetness found here, expecting more heat and spicy flavor, the Thai version of Nashville hot chicken, perhaps.

Full disclosure – I was wrong.

I researched this dish, and found that many of the southern provinces of Thailand are populated by descendants of immigrants from India.  Thus, the curries and roti of southern Thailand closely resemble the naan and massaman of India.  The dish is in fact a southern Thai curry, with traditional accompaniments.  And I learned something, which is always a pleasure.  In a world where learning is traditionally divided into “visual” or “verbal” learners, who wouldn’t rather absorb their lessons by “taste”?

I think that’s a school we can all get out of bed for!

The final dish was the Crispy Spare Ribs.  Somehow, I had missed this dish in its Katoi incarnation.  I will not miss it again.

Let’s start with what it isn’t.  Banish all thoughts of barbecued spare ribs from your mind.  These have nothing in common with those.

This dish is four meaty ribs, under a pile of peaches, pickled nectarines, and lime juice, glazed with a magic sauce made from fairy dust and unicorn horn shavings.  The menu describes it as a fish sauce caramel, so we should probably go with that.  But it’s magic.  It’s sweet, funky, and crispy.  

Disciplined eaters can enjoy the interplay of the fruits and the sauced ribs with alternating bites.  But they would be wrong, and you should not date them again..   The correct way to eat these ribs is with your hands, like this, making this exact face:

My meals were accompanied by Cha Yen, the brightly-colored Thai ice tea.  It’s a spiced black tea, with sweetened condensed milk, and a color similar to carrot juice.  It’s a bit sweet, creamy, and very refreshing.  I have tried Thai ice tea in other restaurants, only to be overwhelmed by the coconut milk to tea ratio (hint, there should be more “tea” in tea).  Takoi’s version is perfect.  I can taste it now.

However, what really sets Takoi apart is its service.  The team service, where every server passing the table DID something for that table (delivered a dish, took an empty away, filled a glass, asked if drink refills were needed, etc.), was exhibited on every visit.  It is clearly a part of the restaurant’s DNA, a survivor from earlier incarnations.  It’s a rarity in metro Detroit, let alone Corktown.  It is difficult to teach, onerous to manage, and impossible to fake.

Which leads us back to our original question:  Same as it ever was?

While everything has changed, the people have not.  They’re young, enthusiastic, beautiful, and having fun.  They actually seem to be ENJOYING their time at work, and with each other.  How can that be?

One of my friends taught me that you can taste the love in food.  Grandma’s cornbread tastes best, because she put the love in it.  No one else’s will ever taste that good.  And while you might not know the Takoi team, you don’t have to be around them very long to feel the love.

And you can taste it, too.

Takoi is located at 2520 Michigan Avenue in Detroit.  It is open Mon – Wed 5 p.m. till midnight, and Thur – Sat 5 p.m. till 2 a.m.  Reservations are recommended.  Call the restaurant, at 313.855.2864, or you can book a tasting at

Red Dunn


Detroit’s vibrant restaurant scene just got a bit brighter, with the opening of Red Dunn Kitchen, adjacent to the Trumbull & Porter Hotel.

Red Dunn could be considered a hotel restaurant, a fact that usually means you should eat elsewhere.  Especially in a neighborhood like Corktown, where hotspots like Mudgie’s Deli, Brooklyn Street Local, and Le Petit Zinc are within walking distance of the hotel’s doors.

But hotel guests who venture out without eating at least one meal at Red Dunn are truly missing out.

It might be the best restaurant in Corktown.  In fact, I fully expect to see it on all of the “Best of Detroit Restaurants” lists this year.

It’s that good.

Red Dunn Kitchen’s, well,  kitchen is run by Chef Jay Gundy.  

Jay’s an interesting single guy (he made me promise to write that), a local who took a roundabout route into the kitchen.  He started out studying Automotive Engineering, but dropped out when he found something he liked better.  He’d managed a Pizza Hut for four years, and was offered a job cooking pizza (and other items) at the Alcatraz Brewing Company in Great Lakes Crossing.  There he found his calling.  His passion was rewarded with greater responsibility at other restaurants, working his way up Metro Detroit’s fine dining chain:  Forte, Small Plates, Cafe Via, Fiddleheads, and Tribute.  At Tribute, he worked under James Beard Award-winning Chef Takashi Yagahashi.  Jay speaks of that time as when he really came into his own.

In 2011, with owner Jeremy Sasson, he opened Townhouse, in Birmingham.

And now Red Dunn, bringing along Andy Campbell as his sous and pastry chef (more on that later).

Jay and Andy have just finished the menu, with lunch being the last meal added.  Diners now have the option of outstanding cuisine for any meal.

For breakfast, the “Classic” Eggs Benedict is actually tweaked, substituting speck for the Canadian bacon, and adding spinach and tomato.  If you’re a purist, this might trouble you.  You’d be petty, and wrong–it works, and it’s delicious!




However, the Huevos Benedictos is a more flavorful Benedict, one dragged through Southwest Detroit’s cocinas.  Two black bean cakes are topped with chorizo, poached eggs, hollandaise, salsa, and avocado.  This dish will open your eyes, brighten your morning, and make you drink a quart of their good strong coffee before striding out to conquer your morning.  It’s a spicy, rich dish with contrasting textures, and the hits of citrus in the hollandaise and the salsa balance that richness.

Further complicating breakfast choices is the Crab Artichoke Potato Hash, a savory medley of sweet and Yukon Gold potatoes, lump crabmeat, bacon, eggs, hollandaise, and pickled Fresno chilis.  This dish could easily be a flavorless mess with muddled flavors, but in Chef Gundy’s version, the overall sense is one of balance.  No flavor overwhelms the sweet taste of the crab, and the salty crunch of the bacon complements the sweet potato.  The acid added by the citrus and the pickled Fresnos provide a clean finish.

For lunch, the classic cheeseburger is given respect, as you would expect from the Townhouse pedigree.  Here, the house grind of skirt and chuck is dressed with brandy caramelized onions, tomato jam, and raclette cheese, and served on a sesame seeded toasted bun.  The burger is accompanied by parmesan rosemary fries.  If it’s a cheeseburger you want, this burger has it all:  right size, right taste, reasonable price.

However, you’d be missing the Pork Belly Tacos.  That would be a shame, because they’re awesome.  The pork belly is braised in court bouillon (water, white wine, mirepoix, herbs, pepper), sliced, then deep fried for a crispy crunch.  It’s dressed with cilantro, daikon, carrots, kimchi aioli, and cashews for a taste reminiscent of banh mi, the classic Vietnamese sandwich.  These are beautiful tacos, and diners at other tables were openly ogling as I devoured them.






But as you might expect, dinner is where Red Dunn really shines, both for entrees and Pastry Chef Campbell’s desserts.

Let’s start with a fish, the Roasted Skrei Cod.  Thoroughly blackened, the fish alone is really too spicy to eat.  The blackening spices are a bit overwhelming.  Ah, but remember, we’re in good hands here, and the balance of this dish is to be found in its whole.  The fava beans, the slightly bitter mustard greens, and most of all, the saffron swim sauce all balance out that heat.  In fact, the overall dish tastes refreshing.  The fish was cooked perfectly, flaky, still moist.  Overall, a winning dish, one I would gladly have again.


Or you might choose a chicken dish.  After all, Red Dunn is a breed of chicken.  The chicken here is exceptional, and unique.  On the menu as Fried Chicken Roulade, it’s chicken two ways:  a Coq Au Vin chicken thigh, braised until extremely tender, and three white meat roulades.  The roulades are breast meat, stuffed with a Dijon forcemeat, wrapped in chicken skin, and dropped in the deep fryer for a crunchy, crispy exterior.  The dish is plated wonderfully, atop pesto mashed potatoes, brussel sprouts, sweet corn, apple salad, garnished with pan jus.

The house specialty dessert is Chocolate for Two, a trio of (gluten free) dark chocolate delights:  a flourless chocolate cake, a dark chocolate macaron, and a pot de creme, with caramelized bananas.  The plate is finished with fresh berries, and mint and raspberry sauces.  The cake is deeply deeply chocolate, rich yet not too sweet.  The macaron has a properly crispy shell, and is filled with a dark chocolate ganache.  The pot du creme is the same dark chocolate, lightened up a tad with the addition of some white chocolate.  The custard is silky smooth, and deeply satisfying.  And because the chocolate flavors in all three elements are so profoundly decadent, this dish really is suitable as a great meal ending for two.


There’s a clear influence of French and Asian on the menu, most notably in the overall balance of the dishes.  Rarely does a single element overwhelm a dish.  Rather, there’s a harmony of ingredients building to a greater whole.

For a restaurant that has just opened, it is remarkable Red Dunn is turning out food of this quality.  That’s really a tribute to Chef Gundy and his team, as well as Dustin Walker, Trumbull & Porter’s Food & Beverage Manager.  Service did vary some over the four visits, but the food stayed at the same exceptional level.  I’d suggest you get here now, before it’s fully discovered.

Red Dunn Kitchen is adjacent to the Trumbull & Porter Hotel, located at 1331 Trumbull Street, Detroit, MI.  Red Dunn is open daily from 6 a.m. – 2 a.m.  Reservations are available on their Web Site,, or through Open Table.

Copyright 2017 by Tim Flucht.  All photos copyright 2017 by Tim Flucht, and are not to be used without express permission.

Happy 241st!

July 4, 2017 will be America’s 241st birthday.

The Fourth of July is one of my favorite holidays for a lot of reasons.  It’s near the start of summer, so the extra day off feels good.  The kids are out of school for the summer, so you can spend the time as a family.  You get to celebrate the birth of our nation, and we usually celebrate with barbecues, picnics, and other outdoor activities.

It’s the perfect summer holiday!

I decided I wanted to do something special for this year’s holiday, so I started researching on-line.  What do you get someone for their 241st birthday?

I should have known:  bacon.

Hey, don’t yell at me, I’m only the messenger here.  You can look it up yourself:

With that settled, I just needed the right medium,  What dish would be made better with bacon, that is suitable for a barbecue, picnic, or other get-together?

Candied Bacon Crusted Citrus Icebox Pie!

If you aren’t familiar with Icebox Pies, they were quite popular in the 50s and 60s, a simple dessert that was present at nearly every church social, ladies lunch, or family feud.  They’re simple to make, tasty, tart, with a crunchy graham cracker crust.  Really, what’s not to like?

For our purposes, we’re going to toss out that graham cracker crust, and create a new one, comprised entirely of candied bacon.

Here’s the shopping list:

1 1/2 lbs. of thick cut bacon

3 14-oz. cans Eagle sweetened condensed milk

3 8-oz. bars of cream cheese

1 1/2 c. lemon juice (fresh squeezed is best)

Citrus fruit, for zesting (see note)

1 c. fresh blueberries

1 pt. fresh raspberries

8 oz. white chocolate

Pantry items – brown sugar, smoked paprika, chipotle pepper powder, cooking spray, silicone star mold(s)

To start, preheat the oven to 385 degrees.  This is a bit cooler than usual for baking bacon, and it will take a bit longer, but hotter temps will burn the brown sugar.

We want caramelization, not charcoal.

So 385 it is.

Cover two cookie sheets in aluminum foil.  You don’t have to do this, but it saves scrubbing them afterward. I’ve done it both ways–trust me, you want to cover them in foil.

Place the bacon on the cookie sheets, as shown.

In a small bowl, mix together 1/2 c. brown sugar (light, dark, pure of heart, it doesn’t matter), 2 t. smoked paprika, and chipotle pepper powder to taste.  Now here’s the thing:  if you were just making candied bacon–which you can using this recipe, and it will be DELICIOUS!!!–we’d use only a bit of the chipotle powder.  Gentle heat, paired with smoke and sweet, makes for a great piece of bacon.  But for this recipe, we’ll be turning that tasty bacon into a crust for a sweet, tangy citrus pie.

We can amp up the heat, as the richness of the pie filling will help smooth it out.

Be generous with the chipotle–maybe a full tablespoon.

Mix the spices until well-blended, and spoon them onto the raw bacon, giving each piece a generous line of spice.  You don’t have to fully cover the slice, as the sugar will melt, and spread.  Just get a healthy stripe of spice on each bacon piece.

Place the bacon in the oven.  Set a timer for 20 minutes.  Watch carefully!

Your oven is different than mine.  Yours may be a bit hotter, or not.

Your bacon could be cut thicker than the bacon I used.

You may like your bacon medium rare (freak!).

The point is, I can’t tell you when your bacon will be done.  There’s other factors at work here.  The bacon will go from crispy caramelized candy, to burnt garbage in about 90 seconds.  That’s your window of success.

Watch the bacon.  If you are cooking it in two sheets, rotate the sheets after 12 minutes or so, so the bacon cooks evenly.

If you burn it, start over.  It will not work in this recipe.

After 18 – 22 minutes, you should have a cookie sheet or two covered in crispy, gooey, porcine fabulousness.

Working carefully, as the caramelized spices are roughly the same temperature as the surface of the sun, get the bacon off the sheets, and onto a suitable draining station.  Normally, a plate with a few folded paper towels would work.

Not here.

When the caramel cools, it hardens.  When you try to take the bacon off the paper towels, the bacon, caramelized spices, and recycled bleached paper products will have melded into a single entity.

This entity does not taste good.  But I cannot stress this enough–thoroughly drained bacon is key to this recipe.

Find another method.  Maybe a cake drying rack (coated ones work well, and don’t stick), perhaps parchment paper, it’s your choice.

Here’s what’s important – you have to get as much fat as possible off of the bacon.  Grease will not improve the flavor of the pie.  In fact, it will make it taste pretty horrible.

Drain the bacon, pat it dry, rub it with Dawn dishwashing liquid (DO NOT REALLY DO THIS.  DO NOT WASH YOUR BACON IN DAWN, OR ANY OTHER DISHWASHING LIQUID), take it to the shop and run it through the degreaser (DITTO.  DO NOT DO THIS.), or just give it a good scrubbing with Lava soap (DO I NEED TO SAY IT AGAIN????!!!!).

Drain the bacon, and chop it finely.

Lightly spray a 13 x 9 glass baking dish with Pam.

Or, if you shop at Wal-Mart, with Pat, their generic cooking spray.

Lightly!  We don’t want grease, just a bit of lubrication for the sticky bacon.

Sprinkle, spread, and/or spackle the bacon evenly on the bottom of the baking dish.

Just the bottom–leave the sides alone.  You want a reasonably substantial bottom crust for the pie, and just doing the bottom of the dish decreases the difficulty factor by half.

Once that is done, start zesting your citrus.

No, that’s not a euphemism.

Here’s where you can inject a bit of creativity, based on your group’s taste.

Most recipes call for lemon zest.  You’ll need 3 or 4 lemons.  If you do this, the resulting pie will be very tangy, with a bright citrus punch.

You could use lime zest.  You’ll need 4 to 4 limes.  If you do this, the resulting pie will border on sour, and the flavor will be a bit more complex.

You could use Meyer lemons (as if!), key limes (no!), or organic artisan-raised ugli fruit (ugh, hipsters).  Have fun shopping at Whole Foods.

Or you could use oranges.  You’ll need 2 big ones.  If you do this, the resulting pie will be sweeter, with an almost floral note.

Or some combination of the above.  The point is, by changing only one ingredient, you can make the pies taste completely different.  Which is pretty cool.

After you decide which citrus to zest, get zesting.  You’ll need 3 tablespoons of it.  Mince it to dust.

In a large bowl, combine the 24 ozs. of cream cheese, the contents of the 3 cans of sweetened condensed milk, and the 1 1/2 cups of freshly-squeezed lemon juice.

Side note – yes, you can use the bottled stuff.  The pie will not taste as good.  All of the freshness and zing will be lacking.  Let your conscience be your guide.

Beat this mixture until very smooth.  If you are using a stand mixer, with a 4-horsepower motor, this won’t take long.

If, like me, you are using a hand mixer so old it is actually covered in age spots (No joke, see the pictures.  There’s glue residue from an old label, and some brown spots that will not wash off.  Ever.  I think this mixer may have been my mom’s at some point.  I think she got it as a prize for selling the second-most cookies in her Brownie troop.  That old.), it will take longer.  Much longer.

If you are mixing the ingredients by hand, the smooth mixture and your first social security check should arrive about the same time.  Assuming you’re under 40 when you start.

Don’t mix the ingredients by hand.

Once the mixture is silky smooth, simply pour it over the bacon crust in the prepared baking dish.

Smooth the top with a spatula, or lacking a spatula, a concrete trowel.  Or lick your thumb repeatedly, and use it to smooth out any bumps on top of the pie.  Do not let family members see you do this.  For some reason, it freaks them out.

Your cat, on the other hand, will find this process fascinating, and will probably like you more afterward.

Once the top is completely level, gently place your creation in the bowels of your refrigerator, and close the door.

Let that pie sit in the dark for 4 – 6 hours.  Give it time to think about its life choices, and how it ended up in a refrigerator somewhere in the Midwestern U.S.

Or Canada.

Let the cheese, milk, and citrus work out their differences themselves, and become a TEAM!

And by TEAM, i mean the pie sets up.  The filling hardens, so you can slice it.

As that magic is happening, give yourself a pat on the back, coach.  You’ve done good work today.

Now get ready to decorate.

A flag design seems obvious, as the pie is nearly white, and rectangular in shape.  And it’s the 4th of July, so let’s go for it.

There are at least two ways to do this.

The first way is complicated, time-consuming, difficult, science-y, and, in the hands of an unskilled decorator (me), delivers results worthy of a starring role in the “worst effort” Pinterest thread.

You can read about the first way in the postscript, after the pictures of the finished product.

Don’t do the first way.

The second way is quick, simple, and results in an easily-recognizable output.

Place the white chocolate in a glass measuring cup, and place the cup in the microwave.  Microwave on high for one minute or so.  Carefully remove from the microwave, and stir.

Is all the chocolate melted?


Back in the nuke, for another 20 seconds or so.


Cool.  Stir it until smooth, and no lumps remain.

Pour the melted white chocolate into the silicone star molds.  My mold had big, deep stars, so I only got 10 stars.  Your mileage will vary.

Let the chocolate cool for a while.  Don’t put it directly into the ‘fridge.  It makes the chocolate angry.  Let it cool on the counter for a while.

Once the chocolate has hardened, turn it out of the molds.  Discard (eat) any stars with broken points, bad behavior, or Cs on their report cards.

Place the rest in the refrigerator till needed.

In the meantime, take the pie out of the fridge.  It should have set up nicely by this point.

If you see a ring of yellow grease around the edges of the pie, you did not sufficiently drain the bacon.  I don’t mean to be rough on you here, but that pie will not taste good.  It’s ruined, and you have to start over.  I’m not kidding.  Stop here, throw it out, and save yourself the trouble.  Better than serving something everyone hates.  You don’t want your pie to be legendary for the wrong reasons.

If you properly drained your bacon, the edges of the pie will look just like the center:  cream-colored and set.  The consistency should be like a good key lime pie.

Grab the pint of red raspberries.  Pick them over, so there’s no rotten or moldy ones hiding out, then rinse thoroughly.

After the berries have dried, lay similar-sized berries in a row across the bottom long edge of the pie.  That’s the first stripe of your flag.

Now, if you want to be authentic, you can figure out how to make 13 stripes in the 9″ of pie you have on that side.  That means each stripe must be just less than 3/4″ wide, so sort your berries accordingly, and get to work.

Or you can realize that no one is actually going to fly this flag, so an authentic 13 stripes is probably an unnecessary level of detail.

And don’t even get me started on the 50 stars.

Speaking of which, pick over, rinse, and drain the blueberries.  Using the berries, outline a 3 1/2″ square in the top left side of the pan.  That’s where your stars will go.

Pull the stars out of the fridge, and place them in a pleasing pattern within the confines of said blueberries.  How many and what pattern is up to you.  Go nuts.

Once the stars are in place (you can push them down a bit to set them), fill in the remaining space in the square with the blueberries.

Once the blue square is done, add the remaining red stripes to your flag.

Step back and take a look.  Tweak your design, if necessary.  Fill in any obvious holes in your pattern.  Straighten the stripes, or the edges of the blue field.

When it meets with your approval, place it back in the refrigerator.  That’ll help set the berries in place, and ensure smooth slicing when serving.

That’s it.  You’ve created the perfect dessert for America’s 241st birthday.

How does it taste?  Well, the filling is rich, creamy, sweet and tart.  The fresh berries add a pop of additional flavor, and a textural note.  The candied bacon crust adds salt and smoke, another element of crunch, and heat from the chipotle.  It cuts the richness a bit.  Overall, it’s delicious.

Enjoy the barbecue.


POSTSCRIPT – How can I get a perfect flag design on this pie, without resorting to fondant, artificial colors, or unnatural chemical additives?

I know, I’ll use fresh strawberries, blackberries, and blueberries to make a puree, and then I can paint the puree on the pie.

That’s what I tried to do.

I took fresh berries, pureed them in a food processor, then strained the puree through a strainer to remove all the seeds.

I heated the puree till just boiling, then added a bit of lemon juice (to hold color and taste), a small pinch of sugar.

I tried dipping a basting brush in the puree, and painting a stripe on some wax paper.  This was a failure; it simply did not work.

Thinking, I grabbed some gelatin, reheated the puree, and added a tablespoon of the unflavored gelatin.

I thought about using more gelatin, but I didn’t want fruit leather.  I would be too tough to slice, and displeasing to eat.  So I just used the one tablespoon in each batch of puree.

I whisked the mixture till velvety smooth, and poured out onto wax paper on the kitchen island.

I did this for both the strawberries (stripes) and the black and blue berries (the blue field).

I let the two batches of puree set up overnight.

The colors were good.  The gelatin provided a nice sheen.  The red puree was a bit pinker than I would like, but certainly serviceable, and the blue was dark enough to work well as contrast against the white chocolate.

I used a paring knife to neaten the puree into two nice clean rectangles.

I cut the blue into four squarish shapes, quadrilaterals, if you must know.

I slowly and carefully cut the red puree into long stripes.

Once that was done, I used the knife to raise a corner of the stripe.  I picked it up, wax paper and all, then inverted it onto the pie.

I used kitchen shears to snip the ends to length, so the stripe fit the pie.

I did the same with the blue rectangle, placing it in the top left corner of the pie.

I then peeled off the wax paper.

That’s when it went off the rails.

The puree had the consistency of jelly.  The jelly and the paper did not part company smoothly.

Rather, some stayed on the paper; some stayed on the pie.

I scraped the runaway puree off the wax paper, and carefully tried to fill in the holes left in the design on the pie.

Trying to create neat, sharp edge lines with loose jelly is an exercise in frustration.

I did the best I could, but this is really not my forte.

The results were, to quote Cher Horowitz, “a full-on Monet.  From far away, it’s OK.  But up close?  It’s a big old mess.”

I sucked it up, threw out the puree, and used a slender spatula to scrape/lift the stripes and blue field off of the pie, then smoothed to cover any remaining jelly.

I then went with the second method above.

I think the mistakes were not using enough gelatin.  There has to be a happy medium between jelly and jerky, one that would make it easy to work with.

I think the wax paper might have been a mistake.  Maybe the hot puree melded with the paper a bit, making clean removal difficult?  Perhaps a silicone sheet, like the one sitting unused in my gadget drawer, would have worked better?

What do you think?  What went wrong with this plan?

Biscuits & Gravy & Love

It’s 5:30 a.m., and Hana Nrecaj is making biscuits.

Starting with all-purpose flour, buttermilk, and other ingredients she won’t divulge, she mixes the dough. Forgoing the use of measuring cups or spoons, she mixes it “until it looks right”, then turns it out into a floured pan for a gentle kneading. Too much kneading, she cautions, and the biscuits will be too dense.

Hana’s in the back room of her restaurant, the recently-opened Biscuits & Gravy, located just off Ford Road, in Canton, Michigan. The restaurant has been open for less than two months, and Hana has been making the biscuits every morning. It’s a labor of love.

It’s been this way for most of her life. Hana and her husband, Joseph, have been in the restaurant business for over thirty-five years.

Born in Kosovo, Hana and her family came to the United States in 1971. They settled in the Washington Heights neighborhood of New York City, just north of Harlem.

Eventually, the family settled in Michigan, where Hana met Joseph. The Albanian families had known each other in Kosovo, and things moved quickly.

The Nrecaj’s celebrated their 40th wedding anniversary on February 5th.

They started working in the restaurant business at Ever-Joy Burgers, a slider emporium located at the intersection of Evergreen & Joy Roads in Detroit. While I don’t know for sure, I’m guessing the building looked a bit like this:

Together with a partner, they opened for business on April 5, 1982. Like most restaurant openings, there were a few bumps along the way. In this case, after cleaning all night for the opening, Hana went into labor, about a month early. Joseph drove her to the hospital, where their youngest daughter, Vera, was born.

Although she didn’t tell me so, I think Joseph gave her the rest of the day off.

For the next two decades, they opened, closed, bought, and sold restaurants in Michigan and Florida. Sometimes with partners, sometimes alone. Almost always open all night. They were rehabbing a restaurant in 2001. 9/11 happened right before their opening.

It was a tough time to open a restaurant. Joseph had a stroke. They moved to Florida, hoping the warmer climate would help his recuperation.

The girls were older, and Roza opened a restaurant, The Morningstar Cafe. Roza ran the restaurant; Hana brought her work ethic, and her recipes. They kept the 140-seat restaurant full, and they were NOT open 24 hours.

However, Roza missed her Corporate job, and she returned to Michigan after three years.

Hana tried other jobs in Florida, but none really worked out. She loved to cook, and missed her daughters (Vera was also in Michigan). Hana and Joseph moved back to Michigan in 2015.

After a year, they started looking for space. In a strip mall off of Ford Road, Moo Cluck Moo was closing, and the cozy space seemed right.

They opened on April 10th. Hana runs the kitchen, and Roza and Vera are there to help on the weekends.

It’s a family business in every sense of the word.

The menu is a single large sheet: breakfast on one side, lunch on the other.

Everything is homemade, except for one thing – the chocolate cake.

For breakfast, the obvious choice is the restaurant’s namesake. For $5.50, you get two giant biscuits, smothered in sausage gravy. The biscuits are large, with a crisp exterior, and an interior with a wonderful crumb. They are among the best I’ve tasted.

The sausage gravy features a tasty sausage, one with plenty of sage and spice. There are irregularly-shaped chunks of sausage in the gravy, reminding you that you are eating food made by a person, not a machine. The gravy itself heavily flecked with black pepper, and the overall taste is that of home, comfort, and love.

The portion is large – the picture shows a half-order, available for $4.

Roza is a fan of Eggs Benedict, and you can see her influence on this portion of the menu. I have tried two of these, and suspect they are all delicious.

The Southwest Benedict has chorizo patties, poached eggs, and one of the best sauces ever, a chipotle hollandaise. The hollandaise isn’t kidding around – there’s some serious heat in it, so beware. But overall, this dish is so good it should be illegal.

The French Benedict is a direct Roza creation, a flaky croissant topped with ham, Swiss cheese, poached eggs, and hollandaise. Once you taste this, you’ll wonder why it’s not on every brunch menu. The nuttiness of the Swiss cheese plays against the saltiness of the ham, the richness of the egg yolks, and the bright citrus of the hollandaise to make a flavor profile that is more than the sum of its parts. I will caution this is a rich dish.

Pancakes are giant, bigger than dinner plates, in stacks of three, which will easily serve two. For $6. Breakfast for two adults for six bucks. Amazing!

The pancakes can be ordered with berries, nuts, Nutella, and other toppings for a small additional charge. As you can see in the photos, it’s money well spent.

The pancakes feature a buttermilk batter, and they rise a bit while cooking. However, the pancakes are griddled in a bit of butter, creating a crispy crust on the outside. It’s a different textural element, and a bit unique.

Omelettes seem more normal sized than the other menu items, although they are stuffed to bursting, as you can see.

I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention the breakfast meats. While I already described the sausage, the bacon is worthy of discussion as well. Why? Because it’s great bacon. While almost all bacon tastes good, great bacon is something else, a lovely mixture of smoke, salt, and porky goodness. In the picture, you can see Russell par-cooking a bunch prior to open. He finishes the bacon to order–on the grill, not by dunking in the fryer, like some other restaurants. You can definitely taste the difference.

One final thing – note a few things in the picture below. Russell is wearing gloves as he handles the food. Notice the stove next to the grill, neatly wrapped in aluminum foil. This makes cleaning easy, and keeps the stove much neater. Clearly, cleanliness and sanitation are important here. You can also see how fresh the vegetables are that are cooking on the grill. These are all signs of a quality operation, and a cook that knows his craft.

At some point, I”m going to have to flip over the menu, and start trying some of the lunch items. Knowing how good the bacon tastes, the BLT, with a griddled biscuit (!), seems an obvious place to start.

However, the breakfasts are so good, it might be a while before this happens.

During the month of June, you can get 10% off your food bill at Biscuits & Gravy. Simply tell them you saw this article, and the pictures of the lovely Hana and Roza, on I Write for Food, and they’ll take 10% off your check.

Hellfire and Salvation

Don Button is a true believer.

He wants you to believe, too.

Don is an evangelist, preaching about Hell Fire.

And habaneros . . .

Recently, while shopping at Holiday Market in Canton, I overheard a man talking about Scoville units, capsaicin, and Hell Fire. I approached the table, and met Don Button, the owner of Hell Fire Detroit.

Don believes in capsaicin, the chemical that creates the heat in hot peppers. Capsaicin and chili peppers have been used medicinally for centuries. Ironically, its primary use has been as a pain remedy.

Capsaicin has been used as a therapy for arthritis, to fight inflammation, and to suppress appetite. It also is commonly used to create a euphoric feeling, as the body reads the heat from capsaicin as “pain”, and releases endorphins to combat its effects.

Endorphins are the neurotransmitters your body releases when experiencing stress, fear, or pain. Endorphins are responsible for “runner’s high,” the euphoric feeling during exercise. They’re responsible for the rush of relief after watching a horror movie. And they react to capsaicin, creating that same feeling of euphoria, after eating hot food or peppers.

Don wants everyone to feel that, and he’s started a company to bring capsaicin to the people. Hellfire Detroit is a hot sauce company, producing four very different hot sauces: Poblano, Cherry Bomb, Manzana, and Habanero.

From a small facility in Warren, Don and his co-packer, Al Pronko of Pronko Enterprises, craft each batch of hot sauce, using only four ingredients: peppers, distilled water, apple cider vinegar, and salt. The resulting sauces are gluten free, vegan, and vegetarian. They’re also about as natural a product as can be.

The process starts with the peppers. On this day, Cherry Bombs, brilliantly beautiful red peppers, are the main attraction.

After coating with olive oil, the peppers are loaded into a small drum roaster.

The propane burners light with a roar, and the drum begins rotating, tumbling the peppers past the furious flame. Immediately, the peppers begin popping, as the stems burst from the heat.

The tumbling continues for a few minutes, until the peppers have achieved an overall char, and the roasting has deepened the flavor of the peppers.

The roasted peppers are stemmed. Since most of the capsaicin resides in the seeds and pith, both are left in place.

The roasted peppers are loaded into a large pot, and mixed with three other ingredients. The mixture is blended to a puree, then cooked for some time. The puree is allowed to cool slightly, and is loaded into the dispenser.

Rows of sterilized 4-oz. jars await.

Each jar is individually filled, inverted to set the seal, then labeled.

Jars are available for individual sale, or in 4-pack gift boxes:

But most importantly, how does it taste?

We tasted all four sauces, working from the most mild (Poblano), through the hottest (Habanero). One thing to keep in mind: the hotness does vary between batches. The team is using a natural product, and the peppers can vary in heat from batch to batch. That’s why the Scoville units on the label are shown as a range, rather than a number.

The Poblano has a very vegetal taste. It tastes very green, and has little heat. It is a good starter sauce for someone who is just getting started in capsaicin culture.

The Cherry Bomb is more flavorful. It has a deeper taste, from the roasted peppers, and the seeds provide a noticeable level of heat. This is a good hot sauce to add to a cheesesteak, or pour on some nachos.

The Manzana remains my favorite. Manzana peppers are a bit more exotic. In fact, the color varies significantly, and quality control requires the team to occasionally reject a shipment for that reason. However, the chartreuse color is appealing, the peppers flavorful, and the heat level . . . appreciable. This seems a fine condiment to add to recipes. I believe it would be a great add to a tomatillo salsa.

We saved the Habanero for last, mindful of the Scoville units shown on front. At 100,000 to 300,000 units, this sauce is 75 – 100 times hotter than your average jalapeno. And it is.

The heat does not hit immediately. In fact, after a few seconds I thought, “Wow, that’s not really that hot!”

Twenty seconds later, I realized I was wrong. This sauce is hot. Not mind-numbingly hot, not crying-over-my-poor-decisions hot, but genuinely hot. It’s uncomfortable, and you will be reaching for that glass of milk or water.

This is the one you give to that friend who claims nothing is ever too hot for him. It may not change his mind, but he’ll know you were thinking of him.

Interestingly, about twenty minutes after eating the Habanero, I did notice a smile on my face. Whether the endorphins, or the fact the Habanero burn had finally stopped, I was definitely in a better mood. Perhaps there’s something to this after all.

Hell Fire Detroit hot sauces are available on-line and in 90 Michigan grocery stores and gift shops.

Click over to to order, or to find the store closest to you. For our readers, simply enter the discount code “iwriteforfood” for free shipping on orders over $20.